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<La Vie Tang>A Hidden Wonder, Jeita Grotto

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Speaking of must-see attractions in Biblus, Jeita Grotto and Harissa on the mountain both are equally well worth a visit. Furthermore, these two scenic spots are both on the way to Biblus, whereby the tour guide arranged for me to go sightseeing on the grotto and the church first.

The grotto, located about 20 kilometers north of Beirut, conceals itself at the bottom of the Lebanese mountains, where it belongs to the karst landscape. Under tens of millions of years’ geological formation changes, a hydrogeological barrier was formed and the outlet of the Jeita underground river was forced to the surface. This huge and complex underground river in the cave meanders down several kilometers through the entire cave. I have visited a number of stalactite caves at home and abroad which seemed to me that they are virtually alike, and the Jeita Grotto has not been included in the World's Natural Heritage, not as popular as Slovakia's grotto complex in reputation, so I harbored a moment’s hesitation when arriving at the spot. However, the grotto landscape in the Middle East is indeed rare and I could be entitled to a half-price discount for the senior. I decided to enjoy the grotto tour since it was right here under my nose.  

Lebanon’s government has spared no effort to protect the natural landscape by introducing strict management measures. Taking photographs, for example, is prohibited in these caves, and more than that, passengers are asked to leave their mobile phones and cameras on the storage cabinets outside the cave before entering the grotto. I stored the camera as required, but still sneaked the phone with me on the off chance to capture some unexpected harvests. Unsurprisingly, the grotto is not only monitored with CCTV systems but guarded at every corner. I had no opportunity to do any sneak shot but dropped the original idea and explored the grotto with undivided attention.  

Inside the grotto is a world all its own and illuminating systems are cleverly installed for the convenience of enjoying the wonders. The grotto is quite distinctive in the touring routes, seeing that the Jeita caves have been separated into upper and lower parts. The upper part is of dryland that contains walking paths for passengers. As the paths are paved along the terrain, the entire route winds down to an extent of more than 650 meters. In the grotto, stalactites great in style and stalagmites odd in shape unveil the secret workings of nature. So many fascinating wonders coming into sight really inspire fevered imaginations and afford the greatest delight. The huge dome up to about 80 meters high assumes the breathtaking grandeur. The layout of lighting is of nature, unlike the dazzling illumination in a riot of sharp colors in Hunan’s Huanglong Grotto of China. The lights shed down fresh and soft rays, and the surrounding environment has been more carefully preserved, which is worthy of learning.

The lower part is an underground stream. Together with other visitors, a flat-bottomed dingy carried us and glided slowly along the watercourse of more than 800 meters long. The winding path leads to a secluded quiet place, providing both a fantastic karst landscape formed by the water erosion over hundreds of thousands of years on both sides and a marvelous experience for its admirers. 

The surrounding area of the Jeita Grotto is also quiet and beautiful, streams gurgling. Two traffic options to the grotto are available for visitors, either by cable car or small forest train in the scenic region. Despite of the hot weather here, it feels very pleasant in the densely-covered mountain. 

I continued my journey northward from the grotto and arrived at the second largest city Jounieh off the coast of Lebanon. The city with a history of approximately 200 years is architecturally constructed in the Ottoman style. The city especially features the only casino of the nation which is incredibly unbelievable in other Arab countries. As a holiday paradise, it is a scene of bustle and excitement in bars and restaurants on summer evenings.

We went to Jounieh mainly for the Mountain of Our Lady where the cone-shaped Harissa Church with a distinctive outside erects on the top. But what is more special is the giant white Our Lady of Lebanon mounted on top of the church. The statue was completed in 1908, 8.5 meters in height and 15 tons in weight. It watches Lebanon and is one of the holy places for Christians. It has proudly been visited by Vatican Pope John Paul II on May 10, 1997.  

I ascended the steps of the cone-shaped church to the top and looked up at the statue. She wears a soft smile on her face with her hands extended as if embracing the entire city or welcoming pilgrims from all directions. It is the highest point dominating a panoramic outlook of the entire coastline, intoxicating its admirers with its enchanting beauty.

I had a compressed itinerary for the day, the Mediterranean city of Jounieh, the Mountain of Our Lady, the grotto of karst landscape and the Biblus exploration for ancient antiquities. But I felt not thoroughly enjoying myself when the day trip was wrapped, so we then headed to the coast after returning to the downtown, a place for public sports and fishing. On the shore there are two huge rocks with wavy stripes protruding from the sea, known as Pigeon Rock Grotto, the comparatively larger one of which has a round opening of peculiar shape at the bottom, the arch-like span easy for small yachts to sail across. It is the popular landmark as well as the must-see attraction of Beirut. It doesn’t have a pigeon-like outline, rather, some claimed that the origin of its name stemmed from the fact of being the nesting place for pigeons; others claimed as there has been a restaurant called Pigeon Cave and hence the name.

I didn’t confine my rock tour only to the coast, after the tour guide recommended a sailing across the arch of the Pigeon Rock Grotto while appreciating the breathtaking view of sunset on the Mediterranean. I wouldn’t let the good chance slip. Dusk was falling as I hurried to rent a boat from a yacht club at Zaitunay Bay without any hesitation and sailed across the rock opening in the sea breeze. I once had a date with the Mediterranean’s sunset in Tel Aviv of Israel and enjoyed the reunion with the Mediterranean’s sunset in Beirut. Ripples shining against the golden afterglow, the boat drifted gently in the sea, and there wouldn’t be a better moment that I found Beirut really worthy of the reputation, the little Paris of the Middle East.

 

“An exotic blend of mystic beauty and primitive serenity: Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Jordan, Lebanon”

 

Tang Yu Lap Hantec Honorary Chairman

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The cone-shaped church – Harissa on the Mountain of Our Lady

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